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dc.contributor.authorStien, Nicolay
dc.contributor.authorFrøysaker, Tor Frithjof Hegard
dc.contributor.authorHermans, Espen
dc.contributor.authorVereide, Vegard Albert
dc.contributor.authorAndersen, Vidar
dc.contributor.authorSæterbakken, Atle Hole
dc.identifier.citationStien, N., Frøysaker, T. F., Hermans, E., Vereide, V. A., Andersen, V., & Saeterbakken, A. H. (2021). The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, 3:661167.en_US
dc.description.abstractThis study compared the effects of prioritizing lead climbing or boulder climbing on climbing-specific strength and endurance, as well as climbing performance. Fourteen active climbers were randomized to a boulder climbing training group (BCT: age = 27.2 ± 4.4 years, body mass = 65.8 ± 5.5 kg, height = 173.3 ± 3.8 cm) or a lead-climbing training group (LCT: age = 27.7 ± 6.1 years, body mass = 70.2 ± 4.4 kg, height = 177.7 ± 4.4 cm). The groups participated in a 5-week training period consisting of 15 sessions, performing either two weekly bouldering sessions and one maintenance-session of lead-climbing (BCT) or two weekly lead-climbing sessions and one maintenance-session of bouldering (LCT). Pre- and post-training, maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during isometric pull-ups performed on a jug hold and a shallow rung, and during an isolated finger-strength test. Lead-climbing and bouldering performance were also measured, along with an intermittent forearm endurance test. The pre-to-post changes were not significantly different between the groups for any of the parameters (P = 0.062–0.710). However, both the BCT (ES = 0.30, P = 0.049) and LCT (ES = 0.41, P = 0.046) groups improved strength in the isometric pull-up performed using the jug, whereas neither group improved force in the rung condition (P = 0.054 and P = 0.084) or RFD (P = 0.060 and P = 0.070). Furthermore, climbing and bouldering performance remained unchanged in both groups (P = 0.210–0.895). The LCT group improved forearm endurance (ES = 0.55, P = 0.007), while the BCT group improved isolated finger strength (ES = 0.35, P = 0.015). In addition to isometric pull-up strength, bouldering can increase isolated finger strength while lead-climbing may improve forearm endurance. A 5-week period prioritizing one discipline can be safely implemented for advanced to intermediate climbers without risking declined performance in the non-prioritized discipline.en_US
dc.publisherFrontiers Mediaen_US
dc.rightsNavngivelse 4.0 Internasjonal*
dc.titleThe effects of prioritizing lead or boulder climbing among intermediate climbersen_US
dc.typePeer revieweden_US
dc.typeJournal articleen_US
dc.rights.holder© 2021 Stien, Frøysaker, Hermans, Vereide, Andersen and Saeterbakken.en_US
dc.source.journalFrontiers in Sports and Active Livingen_US

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